Monday, March 25, 2013

The Nursery Reveal

Over the past few months I've gone through quite a few tutorials for nursery items such as curtains, a crib skirt, crib sheets, changing pad cover, and how to recover a glider. All with the expectation of a little girl arriving in January.

Well, she arrived with fanfare (*cough*a nice extended hospital stay*cough*) 4 days early, and we just hadn't quite put the finishing touches on the nursery. So a couple of weekends ago, we finally "finished" it. There's still a few things here and there I want to add, but they're just little things. I have a feeling it's going to be an ever evolving process.

But! We're going to go ahead and call it final and do the big reveal before she gets old enough to move to a toddler bed.

"Little Girls are... Sugar and Spice and Everything Nice"

First off, can I just say how cute this wreath is? A dear friend made it for Baby Spatula and gave it to us at her shower. A little tricky to cart home, but definitely worth it.

Annnnd... ta da! I give you Baby Spatula's nursery:

Athena Nadia Crib by AFG: Walmart
Crystal Baby Mobile: Handmade (based on this tutorial)
Bedding: Handmade (Sheets, Crib Skirt)
Wooden Letters: local craft store, but can also be found at JoAnn's
Butterflies: let's just say my cutting hand hated me for a while...
Clear Beaded Lamp: Target
White Bookcase: Target

Curtains: Handmade (with this tutorial)
Glider: Craigslist (recovered using this tutorial)

Dresser: Craiglist (refinished)
Wicker basket: Burlington Coat Factory (liner handmade)
Summer Infant Changing Pad: Amazon
Changing pad cover: Handmade (using this tutorial)
Wall Art: Handmade (tutorial coming soon!)

Even though it was a TON of work and took several months to pull off, we really couldn't be happier with how it turned out!

Friday, March 22, 2013

Crack Potatoes

Oh my goodness. Baby Spatula is sleeping and I actually have both hands free. And there is nothing superbly pressing that I must-do-this-minute-before-she-wakes-up. It's a miracle.

It might be more of a miracle for you than for me though. Because it actually allows me to share these fabulous cheesy potatoes with you. And you'll thank me for it. Profusely. I know I have them marked as a side dish and all, but honestly, we may or may not have eaten them after day 1 as just a meal. Our arteries love us.

Back home, there is a family friend who makes the absolute best "cheesy po's" ever. Ever, I tell you. (Um, hi Mom, your's are still pretty good too!) But of course it's "a little bit of this", "a lot of that"... no real recipe. So even though I don't know what all goes in them or how much, I do know that these come very close. However, they're not exactly the same as there is a nice healthy addition of ranch flavoring in these. Which is a great spin off of traditional cheesy po's. And yes. They are like crack. Just in case you were wondering.

Crack Potatoes
Adapted from: Plain Chicken

32 ounces reduced-fat sour cream
8 ounces cheddar cheese, shredded
6 ounces real bacon bits (or the equivalent of chopped bacon)
2 (0.4 ounce) packages Ranch powder (I used Hidden Valley Salad Dressing and Seasoning Mix)
30 ounces frozen shredded potatoes (i.e. hashbrowns)

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Coat a 9 x 13 pan with baking spray.

In a very large bowl, combine the sour cream through the powdered salad dressing. Stir in the frozen potatoes until completely coated with mixture. Bake for 45-60 minutes.

Makes: 8 servings

Of course, I totally enjoyed these completely guilt-free about a week or so before Baby Spatula's arrival, but now... yeah. I think there might be guilt if I made these now. Maybe. Unless all the sour cream and cheese smother it to death. I think it would be worth it to find out, don't you?

I mean honestly, do you really want to look at the nutrition facts? Just close your eyes and keep scrolling.

Nutrition Facts
Serving Size 272g
Amount per serving
Calories 603Calories from fat 384
% Daily Value
Total Fat 42.7g66%
Saturated Fat 22.3g111%
Cholesterol 95mg32%
Sodium 1201mg50%
Total Carbs 33.1g11%
Dietary Fiber 2.5g10%
Sugars 7.2g
Protein 22.3g
Vitamin A 20%Vitamin C 8%
Calcium 34%Iron 26%

Friday, March 8, 2013

Crafty Fridays: Travel Crayon Roll

Back in January, my middle nephew, The Squishy, turned two. And it was the first birthday party for any of my nephews/niece that I had to miss. (Being overly large and pregnant does not bode well for travel.) Needless to say, I was bummed.

Even though I couldn't be there to help celebrate, I still wanted to get the little man something I knew he would get some serious mileage out of. Over the course of the past few months, we had noticed how much he loved to just sit and color. Or, well, scribble. But that's besides the point. The kid loves his crayons.

I decided what better to give him than a way to take a fun thing to do along in the car? So I set about trying to find a little lap desk for him to color on, a few coloring books, and making this cute little travel crayon roll for him to take along and keep his crayons nice and organized. Okay, that last part may be more for mom, but that counts too.

While he's still a bit young to be able to put the crayons in and out of their little slots completely by himself, Mom reports that it's still handy to have at restaurants.

Things You'll Need

2 pieces of 5" x 16 1/2" fabric for front and back
1 piece of 6" x 16 1/2" coordinating fabric for pocket
1 piece of 5" x 16 1/2" flannel for lining
1 coordinating hair tie
1-2 spools coordinating thread
1 matching button
Dressmaker's pencil
1 box of 16 crayons

Begin by getting all your fabric cut down to size. You may notice that my flannel isn't just straight white, but some leftover from a different project. If that's all you have too I say go for it (as long as your outside fabric isn't too see-through).

Fold your pocket piece in half length-wise and press.

Top stitch 1/4-1/8" from the folded edge.

Lay your pocket piece on top of your front piece, with the bottom edges aligned. Mark the midpoint of your pocket piece at 8 1/4". Draw a line at this point from the top of the pocket piece to the bottom. Measure and draw lines on both sides of the midpoint in 1" increments (you should have 15 lines). The last crayon slot at each end will end up being a little wider than 1" to account for seam allowances.

Place your pocket and front pieces on top of your lining. This piece just helps to give the roll stability. Pin pieces together.

Starting 1/4" from the top of the pocket, stitch down your drawn lines (remember to back stitch at the beginning as well as the end).

Place the hair tie on the right side of your piece. Pinch together the portion of the hair tie that has been melted together, then stitch back and forth many times across the tie as close to the edge of the fabric as possible. (Go slowly!)

Lay your back piece on top, right-side down. Pin pieces together. Sew pieces together with a 1/4" seam allowance, leaving a 2" gap on the left side. Clip the corners and turn the crayon roll right-side out. Use chop sticks or another blunt object to help turn the corners out. Tuck the extra fabric in at the opening. Press.

Top stitch 1/8" from the edge the entire way around the roll, making sure to close the gap on the left side.

Slide the crayons into the slots.

Roll up tightly. Gently pull on the elastic until you find that sweet spot where you feel resistance, but you're also not stretching the band out as far as possible. Mark this location with a tiny dot.

Attach the button by sewing through just the bottom layer.

Pull the elastic around the button to see if everything holds okay. And with that, you're done!

How's that for super easy? I'm pretty sure this took me a whopping 15-20 minutes or so to put together, and it turned out looking great.

My super anal must-put-things-in-just-a-certain-order inner child totally wishes I had this when I was little. Way more awesome than just sticking them back in the box and having to pull them out to see which color is which. (Okay, yes, red and blue are easy, but yellow-orange and orange-yellow? Come on, those are a bit trickier when in the box.)

Let's see where this stands price-wise:

1/4 yard cotton fabric @ $4.99/yd = $1.25
1/4 yard cotton fabric @ $4.99/yd = $1.25
1/4 yard flannel @ $2.50/yd = $0.63
2 spools of polyester thread @ $2.99/spool = $5.98
1 package of hair ties (15 ct.) = $2.17
1 package of buttons (14 ct.) = $3.00

Final Price = $14.28

So if you were only going to be making one of these, this may seem a bit pricey. But, if we were to break it down by only the stuff you were actually using (i.e. 1 button, not 14), it would only cost you $9.46 - even less if you already have the thread.

Sunday, March 3, 2013


Our little sous chef has arrived!

Baby Spatula's Stats:

7 lbs 8 oz
19 inches long
3:49 am

After spending 2 weeks in the hospital for breathing issues, Baby Spatula is finally home and doing well. And we of course love her to pieces. I can't believe she's already over a month old!

Erratic posting will resume sometime shortly in the future. :)

Tuesday, January 29, 2013

Pesto Meatball Buns

I have a small confession to make. I've been a bit of a Pinterest stalker as of late. Scrolling through the food and craft sections, pinning things here and there. I need to stop.

But then there are things out there like this -- it may not be quite the same as the original pin, but it really gets my creative juices flowing.

The original recipe was more of a straight meatballs with mozzarella and marinara dipping sauce, which is good, but not what I typically go for. However, the concept intrigued me. I've been in a pesto mood as of late, so I decided that was the direction I was going to head with these. I swapped out the mozzarella for Parmesan, then added in pesto, and in true "if you give a mouse a cookie" fashion, I threw in some roasted red peppers and sauteed mushrooms. Just because.

Pesto Meatball Buns
Adapted from: Menu Musings of a Modern American Mom

8 Pillsbury Grands biscuits
8 frozen meatballs, thawed and halved
1 tablespoon olive oil
4 ounces button mushrooms, chopped
5 1/2 tablespoons pesto
3 1/2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese, divided
6 ounces roasted red peppers, diced
2 tablespoons butter, melted
1/4 teaspoon garlic powder

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Line a large baking sheet with a silicone baking mat or parchment paper. Set aside.

In a small saucepan over medium-high heat, warm the oil. Add the mushrooms and cook, 5-6 minutes, or until the mushrooms have released their juices and it has mostly evaporated.

Cut your biscuits in half and lay out on a clean work surface. Top each half with 1 teaspoon pesto, 1/4 teaspoon Parmesan cheese, half a meatball, roasted red peppers, and mushrooms. Fold edges of biscuit dough over the filling ingredients and pinch together. Place filled buns onto prepared baking sheet (it's okay if they touch).

In a small bowl, combine melted butter and garlic powder. Brush butter mixture over tops of buns. Sprinkle with remaining Parmesan cheese. Bake for 17-21 minutes, or until buns are golden.

Makes: 16 buns (appetizer serving size: 2 buns)

We went to town on these for dinner the other night, but I actually think they'd work better as an appetizer or a side dish than an entree. Such is the life of my husband nowadays, I swear the poor thing never gets a normal meal. :)

I will say, while we both found these to be delicious, they were a little bit of work and took longer to throw together than expected. It probably didn't help that I tried making 24 of these by cutting the biscuits into thirds, not halves. Just. Don't do that. The dough becomes too thin and you start getting holes in the buns. I've adjusted the recipe above to reflect a better quantity for the amount of ingredients.

Nutrition Facts
Serving Size 140g
Amount per serving
Calories 375Calories from fat 226
% Daily Value
Total Fat 25.1g39%
Saturated Fat 8.7g43%
Cholesterol 24mg8%
Sodium 974mg41%
Total Carbs 28.9g10%
Dietary Fiber 1.9g8%
Sugars 7.2g
Protein 10.6g
Vitamin A 16%Vitamin C 61%
Calcium 11%Iron 15%

Friday, January 25, 2013

Crafty Fridays: DIY Wet Bag

You know how I mentioned the other day that we were cloth diapering? Well, one of the big differences between using cloth and disposables is the need for a wet bag when you're out and about. With disposables you simply just chuck the dirty diaper, but you can't exactly do that with cloth (okay, well I suppose you could, but that's an awful expensive way to go about things). So instead of sticking the dirty diaper back into your diaper bag or laying it on a floorboard of your car and smelling it the entire drive home, you can tuck it away inside a waterproof bag that locks in the smell. Then deal with it as you want when you get home.

What's even better about wet bags, is that once your child outgrows diapers, there are still a ton of uses for them. Like going to the beach or gym and needing a place to stick your wet towel and/or bathing suit so everything else in your bag doesn't get wet. Or if your kid has an accident in the car (whether it be bodily fluids or juice), once again, you have a place to put all the wet dirty items so it's not getting all over everything else.

Of course, like everything else, you could easily buy one or three to have on hand, or you can choose to make them yourself. A typical wet bag is constructed from polyurethane laminate fabric and is closed by a zipper. Some (but not all) come with a handle for easy carrying or hanging from a door knob. A few bags also have a cotton overlay fabric which is really just purely for show since there isn't an overabundance in print PUL options.

Basically, you can go as fancy or as simple as you want with these. We all know which direction I wanted to go. Too bad all the ones I liked were easily crossing the $30 mark. (Which, when you are going to be needing more than one, that really adds up.)

So once again, I decided to tackle this beast on my own.

Things You'll Need

1/2 yard cotton fabric for the main body (washed & dried)
1/3 yard cotton fabric for accent piece and handle (washed & dried)
2/3 yard PUL fabric
1 coordinating zipper the length of the width of your bag (i.e. 18" zipper for 18" wide bag)
Spool of polyester thread in matching color
Tape measure
Seam ripper

The above quantities are for a 18" x 18" wet bag.

Note: this is the same little spiel I gave last week for the diaper pail liner, so if you caught that, go ahead and pass GO and skip down to below the next pic. Before we begin, let's familiarize ourselves with polyurethane, or PUL, fabric. There are two sides to PUL, a shiny waterproof side (that's very slippery), and a dull knit-like side. I purchased mine from Joann's (Babyville Boutique), which I found in a completely different area than the rest of the fabric.

Now, some people have noted that this type of fabric tends to be "sticky" going through their machine, and it can tend to gather a bit if this happens. A few solutions if you find you're running into this: 1) use a walking foot (it has extra feed dogs which help keep the fabric moving), 2) use tissue paper on top between the fabric and foot, or 3) sprinkle fabric with baby powder where you plan to sew.

One more note: since this fabric is waterproof and any punctures to the fabric (from needles) will not disappear, it is crucial that you try and make as few holes in it as possible. This is where not pinning the fabric comes into play. You can use other items like hair clips or bobby pins to keep the fabric together, but try to stay away from anything that goes through the fabric.

To get started, there are a couple key things we need to think about. 1) We definitely don't want any wicking or leaking (which means we'll be utilizing French seams again). This also means that our PUL inner layer and cotton outer layer shouldn't be sewn together at any place (except at the zipper). 2) What size do I want? Typical "brand name" bags run small/medium/large which are roughly 8" x 10"/13" x 16"/18" x 21". Smalls usually only hold 2-3 diapers, whereas mediums hold 6-8 and the larges 16-17 (of course this all depends on what kind of diapers you're using, too). So you need to decide which size fits your needs. I decided to go with two different sizes - an 18" x 18" and a 13" x 15". This tutorial walks you through the 18" x 18", but I'll include the measurements for the 13" x 15" at the end.

Now that you've determined the size of bag you want, go ahead and lay out your cotton fabric that has been washed, dried, and ironed (yes, I actually did iron my accent fabric it just refused to lay flat). We don't want any shrinkage when we wash this bag for real. We're going to start by making a fancy-schmancy cotton outer layer, then assemble the bag.

Measure out your accent and body pieces. Keep in mind that the final measurement of each cotton piece when assembled needs to be 19" x 19" (which includes seam allowances). I decided that a 5" high accent piece and a 13" high body piece looked like the proportions I was going for, so my final height measurements were 6" and 14", respectively.

Width wise, the accent piece is easy - we want an 18" bag, so we're going with 19" (to include seam allowances). As for the main body piece, I wanted to add in pleats, so I left the fabric as wide as possible and simply cut it in half. If you used a 44" bolt of fabric, this will give you roughly 22".

Cut out your fabric pieces:

(2) 6" x 19" accent pieces
(2) 14" x 22" main body pieces

Go ahead and set aside your accent pieces. We'll get to those in a minute. Measure out the width exactly of your main body pieces. After a bit of shrinkage in the dryer, mine ended up being more like 21.5".

Working with one piece at a time, add one pleat at 6" and 15". To do this, lightly mark your fabric at the 6" or 15". Pinch fabric on one side of your mark about 3/4" away and fold over to the mark. Repeat on the other side. Pin into place. Repeat with the second pleat. Depending on how wide your fabric ended up being after washing, your pleats may be a little bigger or a little smaller. What's most important is that your final width ends up to be 19".

Baste (set your machine to the longest stitch length and don't back tack at the beginning or end) across the top of your pleats with a 1/4" seam allowance. This will allow you to remove your pins with the pleats staying in place.

Pin your accent piece to the main body piece (the side with the pleats) with right sides together.

Stitch together with a 1/2" seam allowance. Remove your basting stitches. Repeat with other accent and main body piece. Press your seams open flat.

Go ahead and set your cotton body pieces aside. Let's make the handle really quick. Cut a 4" x 14" piece from your left over accent fabric. Fold fabric in half lengthwise with right sides together and press.

Stitch down the open length of the handle with a 1/4" seam allowance. Turn handle right-side out. Press.

Topstitch down each length about 1/8" from the edge. This helps to reinforce your original seam as well as gives a bit more of a finished look.

Okay. So now that we have our fancy cotton outer layer all finished, it's time to actually put our bag together. Remember, we have two goals here: 1) not to have the two layers stitched together (except at zipper) to help prevent wicking, and 2) French seams for the inner PUL layer to also help prevent wicking.

Since our inner layer needs to fit nicely inside of our outer cotton layer without bunching, I decided to go a little bit smaller with the PUL than the cotton - cutting two 18" x 18" pieces.

Now I know I've covered installing a zipper before, but since we're adding an additional kink to it with multiple layers, we'll go over it again.

Start by basting together the tops of your outer cotton layer, right sides together with a 5/8" seam allowance. Using regular stitches, go back over the first and last 1" of your basting stitches, making sure to back tack. Finish your raw edges using a zig zag stitch or a serger.

Repeat with your PUL pieces. For these pieces, the slick waterproof sides are considered the "right" sides.

Press the seam of your cotton layer flat. Do NOT do this with your PUL layer.

Lay your cotton layer flat, wrong side up. Place your zipper facing down over the seam of the outer layer, lining up the center of the teeth with the seam. The top of the zipper pull should be lined up to the bottom of one of the 1" of regular stitches and the stopper (metal end piece) should be lined up with the bottom of the regular stitches on the opposite side. (If your zipper is too long, you can always set your machine to a wide zig zag stitch and "0" stitch length and create a new stopper.) Use tape or pins to hold in place, leaving 2" below the pull tape/pin free.

Then, lay your inner PUL layer with right side facing up in the same manner over the zipper (basting seam in line with zipper teeth, and regular stitches matching up with zipper pull and stopper). This is a wee bit difficult tedious, as your seam doesn't like to stay open and it is hard to get to as it's underneath the rest of your PUL layer. You won't be able to lay tape straight across and you also cannot use pins. I taped lengthwise down the finished edges on both sides of the zipper to hold the layer in place.

To recap, you should have your cotton outer layer laying face down on your work surface. The zipper should be next, also laying face down, lined up with your seam. And last should come your PUL layer, facing right side up (slippery waterproof sides) with the seam lined up with your zipper. The wrong sides of your two layers should be facing each other.

Whew, okay. The hardest part is now behind us. Now, switch out the regular presser foot on your machine for your zipper foot. This is going to allow you to get nice and close to those teeth. Swing your needle all the way to the left. Slide your fabric underneath the foot so your cotton outer layer is facing right side up. Line up the zipper stopper so it is slightly behind your needle.

Stitch down the length of your zipper (making sure to back tack first), stopping about 2" before you reach the zipper pull. Leave the needle in down position, so it is going through your fabric. Lift up your cotton layer and unzip the zipper so the pull goes back behind your foot (you may need to raise your foot to get the pull to go back that far). Remember how we didn't tape down the zipper for 2" below the pull? This is why.

Lay your fabric back down, making sure the teeth of your zipper still line up with both your cotton and PUL seams. Continue stitching down the remaining length of zipper, stopping right after you pass the heavy metal teeth where the zipper pull stops (don't forget to back tack). Zip the pull back to the start.

Slide your fabric back up to the end of the zipper (where you started stitching), and rotate it 90 degrees (so it is now perpendicular to your zipper). With your needle lined up even with where you started stitching, run your needle slowly back and forth across the zipper (using forward and backward stitching) a few times. This will help prevent your pull from sliding under the fabric.

Turn your fabric back, so it is now parallel with your zipper. Slide your zipper foot over, if necessary, and swing your needle all the way to the right. Stitch down the length of your zipper, once again stopping 2" from the pull.

This time, get out your seam ripper and open those basting stitches in the cotton layer (careful not to rip open your regular stitches) from the top of your pull through to just behind your zipper foot. Unzip the pull to back behind the zipper foot again. Line the teeth of the zipper back up with both your layers, then continue stitching until you reach just past the metal teeth.

Turn your fabric perpendicular, and run your needle back and forth across the zipper to the other stitch line (like you did at the other end). You've now just installed a zipper.

Rip out those basting stitches on both your layers (be careful not to rip out your regular stitches at the ends).

Test out that zipper to see if it works! Hooray!

(If this quick and dirty tutorial on installing a zipper just confused you, check out this one instead.)

One more check and then we can move on. Double check to make sure that your cotton and PUL layers are only held together by the zipper. Any excess material past the zipper should be separate to help prevent wicking.

Let's get on to finishing the rest of this bag, shall we? Lay your bag out so that the right sides of your cotton layer and the right sides (waterproof sides) of your PUL are facing each other.

Pull the cotton layer through your zipper and flip over your PUL layers. Now both layers should have their right sides facing out, and it kind of looks like the PUL layer is spitting out the cotton one through the zipper.

With the right sides of the PUL (slippery sides) facing out, stitch a seam (with a 1/4" seam allowance) all along your 3 open sides. Trim your raw edges down to about 1/8" (I just eyeballed it).

Pull your PUL layer through the zipper this time so that your layers are now back to having the wrong sides facing out. You should see a normal (albeit poofy) looking seam on your PUL layer.

In order to make a French seam, we're going to make another seam, this one with a 1/2" seam allowance, around the same 3 edges. You may need to roll the fabric between your fingers a bit to bring the first seam out as far as possible to help the fabric lay flat.

Now it's time to insert your handle and finish up the outer layer. Line up your two outer layers so the seams and edges line up (right sides should still be facing each other). Fold your handle in half hamburger style. Slide your handle in between your two layers, about 1/2" below your zipper. The two raw ends should overhang the edges about 1/2", and the folded end should be inside the layers. Pin into place.

Stitch down the length of each open side with a 1/2" seam allowance, but not across the bottom. When you get to the handle, stitch forwards and backwards a few times across to help reinforce it.

Once you have finished making your two seams, pull the cotton outer layer over the zipper and down around your PUL layer.

Tuck your raw edges along the bottom in 1/2". Pin in place.

Stitch across the bottom (you can using matching thread if desired, I just got lazy) with a 1/8" - 1/4" seam allowance.

Annnnnd that's it! You now have your very own fancy-schmancy wet bag.

Let's take a peek inside. You should see your shiny waterproof side and what appear to be normal seams. But we know better, don't we?

This final wet bag ended up being a little closer to 16 3/4" x 16 7/8" than the planned 18" x 18" (inside PUL seam-to-seam measurements), though it still holds roughly 8-9 diapers. Definitely plenty of room if you're out and about for the day. Note: The outside layer of the bag is slightly bigger than the PUL layer, so you may feel some shifting around when you pick it up. The bottom of your cotton layer is also wider (closer to 20 1/2" than it is at the top) due to adding in the pleats. If you don't like this look, you can always adjust your seams to make the bottom of the bag narrower (I actually did this on a smaller wet bag).

What if you don't need such a big bag?

As mentioned at the beginning, I also made a smaller quick-out-and-about wet bag, with the original measurements aiming for a 13" x 15" bag. This size holds roughly 4-5 diapers. You can find the necessary measurements for the smaller size below, then just follow the same directions as above, keeping all the seam allowances the same.

(2) 5" x 14" accent pieces from cotton fabric
(2) 12" x 22" main body pieces from cotton fabric (I just cut my fabric in half again and with shrinkage it gave me 20.5" - this is fine)
(1) 4" x 14" handle cut from accent fabric
(2) 13 1/2" x 15 1/2" PUL layer pieces
(1) 12" or 14" zipper

Pleats for the main body piece should once again be around the 6" and 15" points (depends on final width of your fabric). Pinch fabric from about 1 1/2" away from mark on each side and fold to center of pleat.

So really, how much is all of your hard work going to save you?

Large BagMedium Bag
2/3 yard PUL fabric$5.20
1/2 yard PUL fabric $3.90
1/3 yard cotton accent fabric$1.40$1.40
1/2 yard cotton body fabric$2.10$2.10
spool of polyester thread$2.99$2.99
Final Price$14.98$12.38

First and foremost, don't forget to use a 40% off coupon on your PUL fabric. Otherwise you're easily looking at $12.99/yard for that stuff. Nooo thanks.

As for the price comparison, even over name brand wet bags, you're still going to save a few dollars. And that's just for ones that are plain, simple, and straight forward -- many of them without a cotton outer layer. Though when you start buying more than one, which I recommend, you're going to see those savings start to add up.

When comparing against other wet bags that have a bit more "flair" than others though, that's when you really see a price drop. In a lot of cases over 50% savings. Think of it like a 2 for 1 sale, with a little bit of hard work thrown in. :)

Care Instructions

1) Turn wet bags with PUL liner inside out and wash on a Warm/Cold (or Hot/Cold) cycle, followed by an extra rinse. Use a cloth diaper friendly detergent. Do not use the Sanitize cycle as the water can get too hot. Do not use any softeners, bleach, or other cleaning agents that contain brighteners/additives.

2) You can dry your wet bags on LOW in the dryer or line dry. Do not dry on high, as this will delaminate the PUL layer. Do not use dryer sheets (such as Bounce) if drying in the dryer.


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